In September of 2021, I did this hike but it was ruined by smoke. I knew I was missing out on world class views, so I decided to do it again in 2022. Conditions could not have been better! See my original 2021 report here, including details, elevation, Alltrails, etc.
Below is a short summary of this 2022 hike and I recommend looking at both trip reports to compare the stark differences in conditions and views.
Day 1:
Day one is a simple 6 mile leisurely stroll down the Lyell Canyon where the Pacific Crest Trail and John Muir Trail temporarily overlap. We walked along the Lyell Fork River, at approximately 8,500 feet. Relatively flat, with views of Kuna Peak, Potter Point and Donohue Pass in the distance. Conditions were below freezing overnight, as expected.
Day 2:
Day two starts with a brutal, unrelenting 3 mile climb upwards along Ireland Creek, over an unnamed pass, gaining 1,700 feet to summit at around 10,600 feet. There is literally no flat on this upward part, BUT the 360 degree views on top are outstanding! This is followed by an additional 3.5 miles through an alpine meadow with 2 lakes - one unnamed and the other called Evelyn Lake where we took a break and cooled our feet in the crystal clear water, before heading on to Vogelsang to camp for the night, where again conditions were below freezing, but surprisingly milder than expected.
Day 3:
Day three we woke around 6 am at first light, and packed up fast, before we descended from about 10,000 feet to 8,500 feet over the Tuolumne Pass along the mostly dry Rafferty Creek for about 7.5 miles. Although mostly downhill, it can be tough on the knees, and the trail, in parts varies between sand, rocks and granite steps. It is a beautiful hike in it's own right with views north of Tuolumne Meadows along the way. Unfortunately for me, my blisters rubbed raw, making the last three miles somewhat miserable and the last mile in particular, a 60 minute limping pace. Par for the course! An hour later, we savaged a burger at the Priest Station Café and my blisters were a distant memory!
